Botafogo & Santa Teresa
Tram bells on the hill, bars below and the bay in between.
Botafogo is a practical, unglamorous neighbourhood with the metro, the bay, good restaurants and easy access to both the centre and the beaches. Santa Teresa climbs the hill above it: colonial streets, artists' studios, the famous tram and views over the city. Staying in Botafogo is the better choice for most visitors; Santa Teresa is charming but hilly, quiet at night and harder to get in and out of.
What works
- A real neighbourhood with good bars
- Metro and bay access
- Santa Teresa's views and atmosphere
What doesn’t
- No beach of its own
- Hilly streets in Santa Teresa
- Some quiet pockets at night
One local move
Ride the tram up to Santa Teresa in the morning, walk the main streets and have lunch, then descend before dark. For dinner, stay in Botafogo where the bars are lively and the taxi is easy.
Getting around
Botafogo metro connects to Copacabana, Ipanema and the centre. The Santa Teresa tram leaves from near Carioca station; taxis and rideshares are easier for the hill at night.
Safety
Botafogo is busy and generally fine by day and early evening. Santa Teresa is quiet after dark; take a rideshare rather than walking the alleys, and avoid the edges of the neighbourhood near favela areas.
4 picks in Botafogo & Santa Teresa
One strong pick per tier. All prices are sample ranges, not live quotes.
Hotel Santa Teresa MGallery
A converted colonial mansion on the hill with a pool and views; a quiet, romantic base away from the beach crowds.
Novotel Rio de Janeiro Botafogo
A modern, practical hotel in Botafogo with a pool and easy metro access; good value for the location.
Rio Hostel Santa Teresa
A colourful hostel in a Santa Teresa house with a terrace and city views; sociable and good value, with a hilltop location.
Mama Ruisa
A small, beautifully restored guesthouse in Santa Teresa with five rooms and a garden; personal, quiet and full of character.
Nightly ranges are sample estimates in USD for a standard double room. They move with season, events and how early you book.
Eat & drink nearby
Bar do Mineiro
Brazilian
A Santa Teresa institution for feijoada and beer; busy at lunch, old-fashioned and worth the tram ride.
Aprazível
Contemporary Brazilian
A restaurant in a garden with views over the city; expensive by local standards and best for a long lunch.
Bar Urca
Bar & seafood
A legendary waterfront bar in nearby Urca for beer, seafood snacks and sunset; simple, crowded and essential.